Doxa SUB 250T GMT: A Refined Return to Form

We’ve long held a deep affection for Doxa, a brand synonymous with bold design and an unwavering commitment to the art of the dive watch. The unveiling of the Doxa SUB 250T GMT ahead of Watches and Wonders 2025 has only deepened that admiration. After nearly two decades without a dual-time zone offering, this release feels like a triumphant homecoming—a sophisticated evolution of Doxa’s storied legacy. We’re eagerly awaiting the chance to experience it firsthand, and it’s safe to say this is a watch that promises to captivate.

A GMT Reimagined

The SUB 250T GMT marks the return of a complication absent from Doxa’s lineup since the limited-edition SUB 750T GMT of 2006. That 45mm titan left an indelible mark, but its size and rarity made it a collector’s piece rather than an everyday companion. The SUB 250T GMT, by contrast, is a refined response to that legacy: a versatile, wearable timepiece that marries Doxa’s dive-ready ethos with the practicality of tracking two time zones. It’s a watch built for the modern explorer, whether navigating distant shores or the depths below.

Design: Timeless

Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the SUB 250T GMT’s cushion-shaped case strikes an elegant balance at 40mm in diameter and 42.9mm lug-to-lug, with a slim 10.85mm thickness that ensures wearability across wrists. The unidirectional bezel, a hallmark of Doxa’s dive heritage, retains its functional edge, while the screw-down crown—embossed with the brand’s iconic fish logo—secures a formidable 250-meter water resistance. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial, offering clarity and durability in equal measure.

That dial is a canvas of Doxa’s signature flair. Available in nine distinct finishes, it spans the brand’s iconic matte colorways—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), Searambler (silver), Caribbean (navy blue), Divingstar (yellow), Aquamarine (turquoise), and Whitepearl (white)—alongside sunburst options like Sea Emerald (green) and a striking new Sharkhunter with a brown-to-black gradient, a vintage-inspired first for the brand. Super-LumiNova® coats the painted indexes and hands, ensuring legibility in low light, while a skeletonized GMT hand—an exclusive Doxa design—adds a subtle flourish, tracking a second time zone against a 24-hour chapter ring.

Movement: Swiss Craftsmanship

At its core lies a Swiss mechanical self-winding movement, adorned with Doxa’s bespoke decorations. Operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), it offers a robust 50-hour power reserve, delivering reliable performance for hours, minutes, seconds, and the GMT function. Likely a Sellita SW330-2 or similar, this “caller” GMT allows independent setting of the local time—a thoughtful touch for travelers seeking simplicity and precision.

Strap Options: Understated Versatility

The SUB 250T GMT arrives with two strap choices: a stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet or a color-matched FKM rubber strap. Both feature a folding clasp with a diving suit extension, a nod to Doxa’s aquatic roots that ensures adaptability in or out of the water. The bracelet lends a polished, timeless appeal, while the rubber strap offers a sporty, contemporary edge. With an 18mm lug width, customization is effortlessly within reach.

Pricing: Accessible

Priced at CHF 2,350 / EUR 2,550 / USD 2,450 with the rubber strap, or CHF 2,390 / EUR 2,590 / USD 2,490 with the steel bracelet, the SUB 250T GMT occupies a sweet spot in Doxa’s lineup. It bridges the gap between the compact SUB 200T and the robust SUB 300, delivering Swiss-made quality, a GMT complication, and 250 meters of water resistance at a value that resonates with enthusiasts and collectors alike.

A Watch to Cherish

The SUB 250T GMT is a testament to Doxa’s ability to honor its past while embracing the future. It recalls the groundbreaking SUB 300 of 1967, yet refines that heritage with a complication absent for too long. Its midsize proportions invite daily wear, its vibrant dials exude character, and its GMT functionality beckons to those who live across borders—geographic or aquatic. We’re particularly drawn to the Professional’s radiant orange, though the gradient Sharkhunter’s understated allure is hard to ignore.

As Watches and Wonders 2025 approaches, our anticipation builds. The SUB 250T GMT promises to be a highlight, and we look forward to exploring its nuances—its weight, its lume, its presence on the wrist. Doxa has crafted a timepiece that feels both familiar and fresh, a worthy addition to a legacy we hold dear. Until we can claim one for ourselves, we’ll be counting the days, envisioning it as a companion for every journey ahead.